Where to begin? Why not in the centre? The centre of Paris is pretty much here on the two islands in the middle of the Seine river: Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint Louis. Ile Saint Louis is like an Oasis in the middle of a busy European capital. With no metro stop and few cars, the quiet and calm of its streets is a welcome respite to a busy days shopping and sightseeing. But any sightseeing that you do should definitely start here.
Ile Saint Louis was named after the French King Louis IX (later canonized as Saint Louis). It is said that he loved to come here to get away from the court and read and pray. Originally two natural islands, one of which was used for cattle grazing and storing wood and the other owned by the cathedral of Notre Dame. At the end of the reign of Henri IV, it became one of the first building projects of the capital. Most of the beautiful buildings that you see here were built during the reigns of Henri IV and Louis XIII and are beautiful examples of 17th and 18th century architecture.
Take a stroll around the island and look up and around to see all the architectural details in beautiful ‘pierre de taille’ Paris limestone mansions, with their huge windows overlooking the Seine. The buildings that are on the ‘Quais’ or waterfront were built for wealthy aristocratic members of the royal court, some by the famous architect LeVau who was also responsible for the Chateau de Versailles, while the properties on the inner streets were mostly built by wealthy merchants and suppliers to these aristocratic homes.
After the revolution, when most of the aristocracy fled Paris and their beautiful homes and especially in the 19th century, with the development of the ‘modern Paris’ by the Baron Haussmann, the island was pretty much abandoned except by bohemian artists and workers. It was actually considered unsafe and unhealthy. But since the end of the second world war and especially in the last 40 years or so, it has re-established itself as one of the areas with the most prime property in the capital.
Many famous and historical personalities have lived here: Camille Claudel, the sculptor and lover of Rodin, lived at N°19 Quai de Bourbon for 14 years before being committed to an insane asylum. Quai d’Anjou was the home to John Dos Passos (the lost generation writer at n°37 and N°.29 housed the Three Mountains Press, publishing books by Hemingway, edited by Ezra Pound. N° 9 was the home of Honoré Daumier a painter and caricaturist. Baudelaire, the wonderful writer of Fleurs du Mal and Les Paradis Artificiels which takes place by moments on the island, lived in the Hôtel Lausan at N°. 17. At the end of the Island on N°. 2 Quai d’Anjou is the Hotel Lambert an incredible example of 18th Century architecture; built by le Vau and the Parisian residence of the Marquise de Chatelet and her lover:
Voltaire. The buildings subsequent owners hosted such great personalities as Chopin, Liszt, George Sand, Delacroix, Balzac and more. After being the Parisian home of the Rothschilds for many years, It now belongs to a Quatari prince and there is much controversy over his plans to renovate it.For a romantic walk, you might want to climb down the stone stairs that lead to the tree-lined riverside path that encircles the island at near water level.
Watching the sun sink behind the towers of Notre Dame cathedral is an unforgettable moment. Many Parisians love to read a good book while taking in the sun on days when the weather is warm. Its also a great place to have a picnic. You can find some great cheese and wine from the cheese shop at 76 rue Saint Louis en l’isle called La ferme Saint Aubin and a baguette from the bakery next door, or from Bernard Lefranc at N°38 of the same street and bread and pastry from the bakery at 35 rue des deux ponts around the corner. You absolutely have to try the world-famous ice creams and sorbets at Berthillon. The original Berthillon ice cream is sold at their tea room at 29-31 rue St.
Louis en l’isle although most of the cafés and ice cream shops sells it on the island. Don’t forget to visit the church on the same street either, which stands out with its unusual holed steeple, a beautiful example of baroque 17th century architecture. They often perform very good classical concerts. From this island, you can explore the whole of Paris, much of it on foot, since the ile de la Cite, with medieval Notre Dame and the Sainte Chapelle, it’s bird and flower market is just across the bridge which joins them.
After that you’re spoilt for choice…Left Bank with Saint Germain, the Latin quarter, its fabulous antique stores or the right bank with its museums and fabulous monuments. If you would like some more ideas, we are in the process of creating a website http://www.myspecialparis.com which will be full of more information. Please come by and see us there, we will be adding more and more as time goes by….
Please note that in Paris, major shops close at around 7.00 PM and on Sundays, Generally its always good to tip taxis and restaurants and cafés an additional 10% if the service is good, even though it is marked on the bill that it is included.
